Birthday

I celebrated my second 18th birthday yesterday. The day started much earlier than I would have preferred, with a phone call waking me up a little after 7:00 am. Igor’s mother wanted to be the first to wish me a happy birthday. On my way to work, other friends and colleagues called to congratulate me, and by the time I got to the office I was feeling very loved.

In Ukraine, it is traditional for the birthday person to make a celebration at the office with colleagues. The American in me still has a hard time throwing myself a party, so I opted for a more modest event. I bought a kilogram of baklava plus a couple bottles of juice on the way to work, and invited my fellow third-floorers to indulge with me.

In the evening, Igor and I invited a bunch of friends to join us at a cafe, where we sat on the patio until late, drinking and telling jokes. I had specifically told most of them “no gifts”, but I’ll admit I wasn’t too upset that I was given some really sweet and thoughtful presents, including several gorgeous bouquets of flowers. Igor gave me a gorgeous set of blue topaz earrings, to go with the beautiful blue topaz necklace he gave me a few months ago. Larysa gave me a really cool photo album of Kyiv “from a bird’s-eye view” – aerial photos of Kyiv; Igor and Olga gave me a fantastic jewelry box.

My good buddy and former walking partner Petya came to visit me this week with his girlfriend Marina. Petya just finished his first year at university in Ivanovo, a town near Moscow, Russia. He hasn’t been back to Tvarditsa in over a year, so he’s going home for a visit this summer and asked if he could stop in Kyiv for a few days to celebrate my birthday with me. I was, of course, delighted by the request! He and Marina gave me a really beautiful set of silver shot glasses with a silver tray – I was really touched. When we got home last night from the cafe, we finished the last of my Paddy’s Irish Whiskey with the new glasses. In Ukrainian tradition, we poured an extra shot for those who aren’t with us now, in particular for my Mom, who actually did a lot more work on my birthday than I did.

wedding plans

We are thinking of having the wedding on December 22 and inviting everyone to stay for Christmas in Kyiv. What do you think?

The wedding will be a relatively simple affair. It’s not a typical time for weddings in Ukraine as no one gets married during ‘post‘ (kind of like advent, the time of fasting before a religious holiday, in this case Christmas). The Christmas post lasts most of December and part of January (Orthodox Christmas is on January 7). At first, Igor’s parents were quite against the idea of a wedding during post, but he gently explained that it will be hard for my family and friends to come at another time of the year, unless we wait until next summer. Christmas break seemed like the best time for family and friends with kids in school. They agreed, as long as we make it a “modest” affair. The other criterion is that there must be post-appropriate food, which ain’t in the least bit hard for me since that means vegetarian!

Weekend of festivals

We went to the American Chamber of Commerce’s 4th of July picnic on Saturday. It sucked. The weather was horrible and the were wholly unprepared – one dinky little tent that didn’t even come close to having enough space for all the people stuck in the rain. The weather was bad last year, too, but at least they had a huge canopy/tent set up in the middle where you could sit down on a dry bench at a dry table. No such tent this year, which was a huge stupid mistake. We met up with the Democrats Abroad, toughed it out for a bit, and then a bunch of us decided to go to a warm, dry bar instead.

Sunday, Igor and I went to the Kraina Mrii (Dream Country) folk festival. It was FABULOUS! I was only disappointed that we hadn’t also gone during the first two days of the festival, on Friday and Saturday. We spent something like 6 or 7 hours watching the different artisans work (blacksmiths, weavers, embroiderers, potters, wood carvers), checking out all the cool stuff for sale (still can’t decide if it was good or bad that we didn’t have much money with us), listening to beautiful music, watching cool dances and Cossack “re-enactors.”

We were both really impressed to see so many people wearing traditional Ukrainian costumes – not just the artisans and performers, but regular people who were just out to enjoy the festival like us. We caught the bug and bought a couple of old shirts – hand woven linen with beautiful hand embroidery. I need to wash them, one of them was a real bargain but looks (and smells) like it’s been in a basement for about 100 years. But I think they’ll be really beautiful once cleaned up.

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Chornobyl Travels

Dad and I had the opportunity to take a one-day excursion to the Chornobyl Exclusion Zone on June 19. We saw many of the same places I had visited during my first visit last year, but we stopped at a couple spots I hadn’t been to before. Overall, the visit wasn’t nearly as exciting or impressive as my first trip, and I have to wonder why some people go back again and again. I mean, it was still interesting, and I suppose if you visit different places and meet different people it would be even more interesting, but to revisit most of the same spots wasn’t so overwhelming.

One new stop for me was the famous amusement park, scheduled to be opened for the May Day celebrations just a few days after the accident.

I made this fun little video there. We were standing on asphalt, and a few meters away was a patch of moss. Moss LOVES radiation and absorbs it like crazy and this little patch created a heck of a hot spot.

A few meters away it was back to low readings.

We also stopped at a kindergarten. That was a sad spot, I thought.

Everyone starting clicking away with their cameras when we came across this gas mask on the floor.

I thought it was put there specifically for tourists, but our guide reminded us that in 1986 the Cold War was in full force and all schools regularly had various security drills, including drills for chemical attacks. One such drill took place just a few days before the accident. Unfortunately, none of those drills were put into practice for the first 36 hours after the accident.

The tour always includes a stop at the information center, in the shadow of the fourth reactor.

I didn’t listen to the official presentation much this time, since I heard it all last year. Instead, I spent more time looking at the pictures and displays around the room. Something that really caught my eye were some photos from inside the destroyed reactor building. I don’t remember if they were there or not last year, but this year I quickly noticed them as I’ve done so much reading about Chornobyl since my first visit. In particular, I was really excited to see a photo of the so-called “Elephant’s Foot”, a big hunk of gunk. I’d read about it in several different books but couldn’t quite grasp what it actually looked like. It, and several other hunks of gunk, are made up of melted fuel with whatever other material got caught up with it when it cooled and re-solidified. Since I’ll never see the actual “Elephant’s Foot” with my own eyes, I was pretty excited to see this photo of it.

Here are my photos, and here are Dad’s photos.

I am an idiot

for waiting nearly two years before discovering the joy that is a house cleaner. I have known for a long time I’m about the only ex-pat in Kyiv who didn’t have a house cleaner. I finally decided to try it today. I popped home at lunch – oh my god, my apartment is sooooooo clean. It is so totally worth 20 bucks. I’m hooked.

And the good omen dream this morning makes me feel even better about it.

Being veg

We had dinner last night with some friends, one of whom has been a vegetarian for about 25 years. Actually, Monica described herself as a recovering vegetarian, which sounded really strange to me. She said “Vegetarianism is a hard habit to break.”

I’ve been a veg for about 20 years myself, so I was quite curious to understand her statement better. Monica said that she had become a vegetarian at the age of 14; she knew about the famine in Africa and had learned how much grain it takes to produce one pound of beef (something like 4 pounds, if I remember correctly). She realized that millions of people could be fed if that grain was not used to raise beef cattle, and decided then and there to not contribute to the wastefulness. About 15 years later, while living and working in Eastern Africa, some villagers slaughtered a cow in her honor and prepared an amazing feast. What can ya do? Ya gotta eat it.

I once had a similar experience. I was studying in Russia in 1992, and called the relatives of a Georgian guy I knew in Columbus to see if we could meet up, and they invited me to their apartment. I knew this would involve a meal, but they didn’t say anything at all about food and I didn’t know how to work into a conversation with complete strangers that, oh, by the way, I’m a vegetarian. So I steeled myself and went to their apartment that evening. They had prepared a very nice meal, with a lot of meat. I knew this had been an extravagant expense for them – in early 1992, hyperinflation was beginning to take off, salaries were worthless, and your average Russian was having a very tough time. There was no way I could refuse this extremely generous meal, but getting that chicken in my mouth was damn hard. I did it though. Then, much to my horror, they explained that they had saved the best part for their honored guest – the chicken heart. I didn’t know whether to cry or throw up. Somehow I begged my way out of it, which probably wasn’t the most culturally-sensitive thing to do, but there was just no way I could eat that heart.

Anyway, since the cow-incident Monica’s toyed with the idea of being a carnivore again, but as she said, it’s a hard habit to break.

I started to understand. The main reason I became a vegetarian at 15 was that I really liked animals and I just didn’t want to eat them. As the years went by, and scary things like mad cow disease appeared, and all the hormones and pesticides and herbicides that concentrate in meat, and the just horrific conditions in those massive industrial farms, I knew that if I wasn’t already a veg, I would have become one then.

Living with subsistence farmers in Moldova, I knew proper nutrition on a vegetarian diet, especially in the dead of winter when the closest thing you can get to a fresh vegetable is a heap of potatoes, was going to be an issue. I did OK, though, and I was lucky that I lived with a family who were accepting and accommodating of my diet.

This past winter, though, I started to crave fish. It was strange, as I haven’t had any interest or desire to eat meat (and yes, fish are made of meat) for years. I decided I must be missing something in my diet if my body is craving it, so I took the plunge and ate some fish. Like most other foods here, fish is usually fried, which doesn’t appeal to me at all. But Igor made some baked fish for me, and I had to admit it was tasty. His mom started making the baked fish whenever I visited them. I know it makes it easier for her as she really had a hard time comprehending what to feed a veg, despite my constant attempts to assure here that I really am perfectly happy with her lovely salads, and eggplant and bean dishes. So, I’ve been eating fish when I go to Korosten, and sometimes when I’ve been traveling outside of Kyiv and it’s just too damn hard to get a decent all-veg meal.

Then I started to reflect on some of my reasons for not eating meat. As I said, I had a lot of concerns about the meat industry in the U.S. But here, in the villages, it’s pretty much about as organic and free-range as you can get! They don’t use hormones, I see the chickens and ducks roaming the yards and even streets, and I know those pigs truly live in hog-heaven. So are my reasons for being vegetarian nullified here? Monica expressed similar thoughts.

I’ve experimented with meat a few times in the last couple of months. I tried Igor’s baked chicken once, and a little bit of the rabbit he so loves. But the texture was weird for me; it didn’t feel like food to my mouth. Monica said she had had the same experience. And she said she just doesn’t even think about meat as a food option, it isn’t a part of her mentality about food. By the time both she and I started doing our own grocery shopping and cooking, we had both been vegetarians for several years. As Monica said “It doesn’t occur to me to go down the meat aisle in the grocery store.”

It’s no longer a conscious choice to not eat meat, it’s a habit. I would probably eat it if I found something that appealed to me, but so far, other than the occasional fish, I haven’t seen any meat here that seems appetizing. I guess vegetarianism really is a hard habit to break!

A dream

I had a dream this morning that I was in my parents’ house in Columbus and my mom was there. She was getting ready to go somewhere and told me to hurry up so we could leave. “Where are you going?” I asked her. “I need to go to the bank before I leave for the conference.” I thought to myself, geez, she’s still running around to conferences like before? And I told her that I didn’t need to go to the bank. She said OK, opened the front door to walk out, then paused and said “Is this your rose?” I didn’t know anything about a rose, but I said “Yeah, I guess so.” She smelled it, said it was nice, and walked out the door. I quietly called after her, “I love you Mom.” Then I woke up.

A few hours later, the new cleaning lady came to my apartment for the first time. She’s an older woman who’s name is Liubov, or Love (Liuba for short). She came in the apartment, opened the bag she was carrying, and pulled something out. She gave me a rose.

Weird, eh? I decided it must be a good omen.